www.deadharddrive.com

[tester272001]

YAR41BWO - 29 DEC 2003
K4FYA and Agere C8-C1 chipset. Main PCB fried. I smelled burning. I replaced with PCB L6FYA and looks identical. The drive spins up but only tries to initialize. It clicks (not like a head crash click) about 10-15 times and then stops (either at boot or when attaced as a USB enclusure).
Any tips on getting this back? Do I need a different PCB ?

[sunnydreamspace]

may be no need another PCB. please send high quality images of both PCB(original and good one) to me by email or MSN. also we can chat online.
_________________
provide Hard drive PCB,entire drive/ Data Recovery service.... big HDD resource. talk to me immediately! sunnydreamspace@hotmail.com
skype: sunnydreamspace

[fzabkar]

It may be easier to repair the original board. If it has a shorted TVS diode, then all you need do is snip it out with flush cutters.

Each board has unique drive specific calibration data stored in EEPROM. Your replacement board causes the drive to click because these data need to be transferred from patient to donor.

If you post a photo of your PCB, one of us will help you repair it. Barring additional problems, the DIY fix should cost you nothing.

Good luck.

[tester272001]

Thanks for the replies. I uploaded a picture here: (its 5MB)
http://www.filefront.com/16367321/P5040044.JPG
Thanks I am ok with a solder iron but never worked with surface mounted components. New PCB on HDD is here:
http://www.filefront.com/16367357/NewPCB.JPG

[sunnydreamspace]

[tester272001]

OK here are two better pics of the pcbs. If either of you can ID the chip that might be shorted I can measure with an ohmmeter and snip it to see if that gets me the old board working again.
http://www.filefront.com/16370843/oldpcb.JPG
and
http://www.filefront.com/16370853/newpcb.JPG
I think you can see these much better. I had the SUN on my side today. which illuminates much better than a flash of indoor lighting.

[sunnydreamspace]

hi,
100% PCB are the same and should work for your drive.
sure don't have ROM chip on PCB. that you just simple swap PCB will work. but you drive still don't work. so it's no only PCB problem. may be firmware even head. would you like to record the sound and send it to me.
_________________
provide Hard drive PCB,entire drive/ Data Recovery service.... big HDD resource. talk to me immediately! sunnydreamspace@hotmail.com
skype: sunnydreamspace

[tester272001]

Sure. That's a great idea. Thanks. If the firmware is different then that could cause the problem (from what I have been reading). Is there any way (besides a SMT station) I can get the old firmware on the new PCB? Like a utility from Maxtor that lets you reflash the fw? (I gotta go hunt down my microphone now and record that sound).

[sunnydreamspace]

[tester272001]

What about the prior post, "Each board has unique drive specific calibration data stored in EEPROM. Your replacement board causes the drive to click because these data need to be transferred from patient to donor."
I've heard that on MANY forums on many different drive types. Is that true or not true ? Or does that vary from HDD mfg ? This is a little confusing.

[fzabkar]

The EEPROM (flash) data are internal to the Agere MCU. I'm not a DR guy, so I don't know whether your model has adaptive data. If not, then a straight board swap should work. Otherwise, my understanding is that the data will need to be transferred.

[sunnydreamspace]

[fzabkar]

Can you identify the component that was responsible for the smell?

I can see one TVS diode (BUX marking) to the right of the 1R5 coil in the top LH corner of the PCB. What does it measure on the 200 ohms range of your DMM?

The 8-pin W503 component in the regulator circuit looks like it may be damaged. Does it appear that way to you?

FYI, here is a datasheet for the above component, and for the SMOOTH motor controller.

FW503, Sanyo, W503 marking code, 20V, 3A, P-ch Silicon MOSFET & Schottky Barrier Diode:
http://datasheet.digchip.com/413/413-3502-FW503.pdf
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet2/b/0ftpi2xu2g38gydr2dcykw6g19fy.pdf
http://www.semiconductor-sanyo.com/pamph_pdf_e/EP124A.pdf

L7250, SMOOTH, spindle motor + VCM controller, ST Microelectronics:
http://wandrew.regruppa.ru/PCInfo/TechDoc/L7250(Smooth).pdf
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/SGSThomsonMicroelectronics/mXyuswx.pdf

[fzabkar]

[quote="sunnydreamspace"][quote="fzabkar"]The EEPROM (flash) data are internal to the Agere MCU. I'm not a DR guy, so I don't know whether your model has adaptive data. If not, then a straight board swap should work. Otherwise, my understanding is that the data will need to be transferred.[/quote]
@fzabkar, please do research before you want to help. don't provide wrong information to the person who need help. this type of drive some have ROM chip for stock adapter and some don't have. remember it. don't make mistake again :) cheers[/quote]

Thank you so much for your patronising, condescending correction.

My sole motivation is to help people. That's why they come here. This means that, unlike DR pros, I cannot in all conscience stand aside and do nothing when the problem may often be solved with a simple DIY fix, such as the removal of a shorted diode, or the replacement of an open fuse.

In such cases, I find it unconscionable to expect a customer to ship a board across continents so that a rapacious DR pro can sell a replacement board, and charge for an unnecessary ROM transfer service.

[tester272001]

Thanks for the replies. I checked the TVS diode you identified and it looks good. On 200 Ohm scale its open. But if I use the diode check setting it has low/high reading as expected. I checked on both boards (new and the toasted one). same reading. The W503 on the other hand does read different. The reading from botton right to top right pin (good vs. bad board) are: 1.1Kohm and .015 Kohm. respectively. It is possible that got toasted. Or perhaps some other component nearby is shorted. I checked the surrounging caps and smt resistors and they read the same (each board). What are the best places to measure voltages ? (If you have any idea). I could try to trace the 5V or 12Volt line thru the pcb. And see if it stops there. I am tempted to swap that regulator now. I will have a look at taht datasheet first to see if I can confim my findings first.